Thursday, September 18, 2014

Dreams in Djurgården

Stockholm is made up of several islands, each full of character and their unique charm. Today I spent the day at Djurgården. Stockholders and tourists alike have been coming to the island to enjoy the attractions, delicious food and relax in the green heart of the Royal National City Park which is home to 20 museums, botanical gardens and an environmental education school.

As I crossed the bridge in pursuit of museum hopping, a single scull caught my eye. He gracefully slid across the water. The sun was out and the water was flat which made for perfect rowing conditions. I was reminded of traveling as a teenage in Italy with my mom and asking the local boat club if I could row on the Florentine river. In broken Italian and made up hand language that resembled a seizure, they understood me and let me row a single shell.

Basking in the memories of my Italian journey, I hastened my pace and followed the single oarsman. However, I lost him around the corner when I could no longer keep up. I then spotted a female rower in a pink tank top and successfully followed her to a quaint boathouse ("Roddföeningens kaffeservering") at the bend in the road.

I politely asked the young woman if she spoke English and if I could rent a boat. She said that she didn't know but that she could introduce me to the owner. "His best friend is visiting from Canada," she mentioned as she introduced me. The owner and his friend were Iranian and speaking Farci when I approached. The owner was on the phone so I spoke to his friend. I explained that I was a rower, had gone to school in Canada, went to row for Cal, and followed the girl and now wanted to row here in Sweden. He then shared with me the he was visiting his friend and that they had known each other since first grade. We chatted for awhile, discovering similarities, sharing our experience of the city and then he told me to enjoy the sun until his friend was off the phone. It turned out that the owner didn't speak English so his friend shared my story while I found a lovely spot on a bench and took a deep grateful breath in.

About ten minutes later, he returned and said that his friend said "Yes!" I jumped with excitement! "Really?!" I exclaimed. "Yes," he repeated. I just so happened to have packed a workout shirt in my purse and quickly did a swim locker change right then and there Superman Style. I was geared up and ready to row in less than 20 seconds.

We carefully placed the boat in the water, popped in the oars and I was off. I waved to the gentlemen on the shore and they waved back, knowing that they had made my day.

My legs pushed against the foot boards and my oars powered through the water. As I glided across the stillness, I could hear the boat lift from underneath me. I looked around at the landscape from my unique perspective and at that moment, I became present to how I, like Djurgården, was my own island - full of character and peace.

Wednesday, September 17, 2014

Swing Dancing in Stockholm

For those of you who know me, know that I love to dance. Just give me a beat and I'm off. Now give me a partner and slick shoes and I'll be spinning all night long!

Tonight, Steve invited me to go swing dancing at "Chicago," a local swing dance studio in Stockholm. I met Steve in a small hut on top of a volcano while I was in Iceland and he lives in Sweden. Had I known he could dance back in Iceland, we would have been doing the Charleston all the way down the mountain.

Tonight I learned that Stockholm has a very active swing scene and it is full of award winning international dancers. The Stockholm community was instrumental in the revival of swing dancing back in the 1980s. There are also a couple differences between dancing in the States and in Sweden that I found very interesting:

1) You dance 2 songs per partner
What I love about this is that you get a chance to learn how your partner dances and moves. Often times the second dance is better than the first.

2) Same Sex Duos
There are a lot of same sex duos dancing. I was asked by a woman tonight and she was a great lead. Guys ask guys. Girls ask girls. The only roles are lead and follow and even those are blurred at time.

3) Style Counts in Sweden
In my experience, being a showy or stylized dancer isn't always the best. You may catch your lead off guard, throw the beat and in some cases leads will ask you to "tone it down." This is not the case here. People make up moves, add steps and give you the space to work it. It felt so freeing to groove and let it all go!

Late night train stops

After an evening if dancing, I boarded the wrong train back to home. This typically wouldn't be a problem if it was let's say six o'clock in the afternoon. However, at midnight, it's a whole other story. In Stockholm, there are the commuter trains and the regional trains. The regional train takes you from central station out to who knows where. The commuter train, on the other hand, stops conveniently in nearly all the neighborhoods. That's the one, I should have boarded. Instead, I was left for nearly an hour in the cold in my sweaty dance shirt trying to decode Swedish. Being along at a train station at night is scary, even if you're in safe Sweden.

Monday, September 15, 2014

Copenhagen - The Land of Happiness

On April 2, 2012, the UN published a report about happiness. According to their findings, Scandinavia is where you'll find some of the happiest nations on the planet. It awarded Denmark first place, followed by Finland and Norway got third. It is abundantly clear why the Danes win. They are welcoming, helpful, friendly and go up and beyond to make you feel heard and cared for.

Is it due to the fact that nearly everyone rides bikes? Or free healthcare? Free college? A year maternity leave? According to the Denmark University Post, the study concluded that "wealth is not what makes people happy. Political freedom, social networks and an absence of corruption are more important factors when explaining well-being differences between the top and bottom countries." I'd also like to add ice cream and danishes to the list.

When I arrived in Copenhagen, I was privy to the happiness rating and was eager to find out what exactly it was that earned Danes such a title. Over late night conversations, my host, Tina, shared with me about how well Danes are taken care of and how that makes them happy. She then advised me to have a Danish pastry everyday while I'm here. While I have only had one, it was enough for me to easily see why people are so incredibly happy. They are delicious! If you are of the gluten free variety, try a little green plastic cup of ice cream. (I'm told that Licorice flavor is delicious!)

Denmark is also full of smiles! My first smile was from Tina when she welcomed me into her home on Thursday night. She had just returned from England where she saw Arthur Millar's "The Crucible." We stayed up late talking about theater and the wonderful world of Copenhagen that awaited me in the morning.

The next day, I met up with Amy, whom I haven't seen for nearly 10 years! We had one rule for our trip - be happy. Smiles were plastered across our faces as we navigated our was to our Air BnB in Norrebro.

Copenhagen is a small city divided into smaller districts that are accessible by foot, bus, train and most commonly by bike. Our district was in the Northwest and our hosts were a sweet couple who owned a local Bikram Yoga studio nearby. The apartment was a lovely, well designed, and open and coming back to their home at the end of each day made our smiles even bigger.

When we headed into town, we came across the Happy Wall - an interactive public art installation where people open up doors and write what makes them happy. (Cue Pharrell's song here.) We noticed that there is a lot of emphasis on fun and happiness. The most common were the inspirational quote posters hung up in nearly all of the coffee shops around town.

For the next couple of days, we meandered through the Botanical Gardens, gazed up at mint green rooftops and burnt red brick buildings, went back in time at the Kronbrog Castle and cheered on athletes competing in an Ironman.

During our trip over to Christiana - the alternative "free city" - we came across a celebration in the streets where there were vintage games set up. Families happily gathered together to play the wooden games and listen to the live concert. I couldn't help notice the man making bubbles and how all of the children around were giddy with excitement. Bubbles guarantee smiles!

Drinking chai tea lattes, snapping photos of graffiti and laughing down the streets of Denmark, the pouring rain on Saturday could not wash the smiles off our faces.

  

 

 

Thursday, September 11, 2014

How to do Iceland on the Cheap

Iceland is notorious for being an expensive country. Like most islands, there is the obvious importation costs associated with getting resources. However, there seems to be an additional inflation of prices. Did I really see smoked salmon for $50 at the gas station? Yup! That's Iceland.

It would be very easy to spend A LOT of money here. From meals to must-have design items, Icelandic tunes, eccentric hair cuts and an abundance of fake and real fur items, money can go fast.

With a little planning, flexibility and a sense of adventure, Iceland can be, yes, affordable.

1) Travel with someone. Automatically everything is shared. If you are traveling solo, see if you can join us with fellow travelers, check message boards and there's bound to be someone interested in a similar itinerary.

2) Stay hostels or huts when necessary otherwise camp or sleep in the car (@KEXHostel in Reykiavik is great!)

3) Take advantage of showers when they are included otherwise they cost anywhere from 300-500 Ikr. But really, who needs one?

4) Eat out of the free food bin whenever possible.
In the shared kitchens at the local hostel, many travelers leave unwanted food that may just quiet the rumble in your stomach or, on occasion, satisfy that sweet tooth you've been having.

5) Wash with Orphan Products
When you finally do shower, do so with orphan products left at hostels or Icelandic Huts. These are items left by people before you - a bottle of shampoo, deep conditioner or scrub. There is always a plethora! This will help keep your bag light and get you through TSA with little hassle, too. Even if you don't know how to pronounce the name on the bottle, chances are it's either shampoo, body wash or conditioner. Run some water and test it if you're really uncertain.

6) Skew the exchange rate to devalue the dollar.
We just divided by 10 so 1,000 Ikr we assumed was $10 when it was actually $8.44. This helped monitor and gauge purchases, plus it makes your bank account nicer when you return.

7) Buy Cough Drops
Yes, we got sick. Many travelers do from inhaling a combination of cold glacial air, volcanic ash and sulphur gas. (Of course, it didn't help that we slept outside for the majority of our trip.) Cough drops and a healthy dose of orange juice are much cheaper than syrup. Or better yet, pack a handful in your emergency kit. If you don't use them, share and you'll make friends quickly.

8) Do you laundry in the sink, if at all.

9) Ask for Sleeping Bag Accommodations
This is when you sleep in sleeping bags rather than blankets provided. Often times, these are in 6-10 room dorm style accommodations. Prepared yourself by bringing a set of ear plugs for the late night snoring beasts who may be on the bunk beside you.

10) If you're going to drive, rent a ultra compact economy car and book online ahead of time. We used Sixt and it cost a fraction of the price. Ask for fuel efficient cars to limit your amount of refueling stops and bills.

11) Be into hiking and camping. Period. Avoid the tour groups, make your own adventure outside. Nothing quite beats spending time in the outdoors, which is typically, free!

12) Bring a tent
Whenever possible, we stayed in our tent. At one site, we had our car, tent and were setting up our kitchen next to the tire to avoid the wind. We called it, "Tire side camping."

13) Shop for food at the Grocery Store
The store "Bonus" is the best (it's the one with the Pig Logo). Limiting your budget may in fact have you buy things you're not used to. Paul, from Britain, shared, "I bought a can of mushrooms. I've never done that. It's what I can afford." Learn to like peanut butter, jam, rice cakes, dehydrated soups, and orange juice.

14) Buy tea and order hot water at cafés or boil a pot and add your tea bags.

15) Walk everywhere. 'Nuf said.

16) Connect when there is "free wifi."

17) Be vegetarian.
Meat is expensive and not eating it easily limits your options on menus. If you like alternative dairy options, don't be too picky about it. Soy tends to be your only option for a markup price.

18) Don't drink or smoke - This is a big money saver while you travel and back home. Both are expensive habits and can ring up the bill quickly. A local shared that if you must buy alcohol then do so at the local liquor store not at a grocery store where it is only 2.5% alcohol and they mark up the prices like crazy. She always laughs when she sees tourists come out with cases of beer and a couple hours later are just as somber as when they went in.

19) Do not buy small souvenirs - Who really needs a stuffed animal puffin?

20) Arrive knowing that it is going to be expensive and budget. Above all, be present and an experience in Iceland is priceless.

Monday, September 08, 2014

Went off camping...

Clarke and I ventured off camping and then on a road trip through Iceland. Specifically we hiked from Landmanaguar to Skogar in 3 days! There has been little to no wifi in the ice caves and lava fields, so a full update from our adventures will come soon. 

--
Lauren Selman
(510) 604-2617 | lauren.selman@gmail.com

A Traveler's Feast

For those of you who have been in a hostel (similar to a college dorm), there is often a shared kitchen. Visitors from around the world make their own variations on camping cheap food. Typically the kitchen is full of oatmeal, peanut butter and rice cake crumbs, however there are special nights where your fellow residents can surprise you. That was tonight. While I struggled to open a can of Campbell's tomato soup without a can opener, a trio from France and Switzerland whipped up a salmon pasta with a hint of Creme Fraiche and another group from Taiwan and China celebrated Moon Day with a feast of meat, soup and fresh veggies. 

After a week of PB&J, ramen and soup, anything looks delicious!! 



--
Lauren Selman
(510) 604-2617 | lauren.selman@gmail.com

Wednesday, September 03, 2014

STEAM POWER STATIONS!

Shuttle to Landmanaguer

Good morning 6 o'clock! Lovely that the sun is as bright as it was when I went to sleep last night after exploring Reykiavik - a beautiful town that reminds me of Victoria, BC. With moist grey stone streets, colorful houses and boutique shops, this sweet town has such charm and beauty.

I crawl off my stainless steel bunkbed and onto the cold floor. My hair a fried mess a top my head from yesterday's dive in the Blue Lagoon. I walked into the shared washroom down the hall to find a woman barely wrapped in a towel and her hiking boots on. Yet another subtle reminder, that I'm in Iceland....or perhaps a reminder that I'm in a hostel with fellow backpackers. We share a giggle and share travel stories and the iconic hiking girl photoshoot moments becomes a humorous memory.

After dousing my hair in half a bottle of orphan conditioner left by a fellow traveler, I get suited up and Clarke and I downsize our bags for the fifteenth time before walking to the BSI Terminal to take the bus to our trailhead.

We choose to skip the twenty dollar sandwich and enjoy a cup of coffee and peanut butter and jam on crackers instead - our staple for the next 5 days. Here we go!

Monday, September 01, 2014

Time to play in the woods...or glaciers?...

We finally had a chance to sleep in a bit before gearing up for our hiking adventure in Iceland. After my brother dropped his girlfriend off at the bus for her art residency, we took out our maps and calendars and started pulling together a skeleton of a plan for Iceland.

We are choosing to do the iconic hike from Landmannalaguar to Skogar. According to our research, the total hiking distance is close to 53 km and the route from Thorsmork to Skogar on the south coast adds 24-26 km, totaling over 70km which we estimate will take us about 4 days, maybe less.

Site describes the Landmannalaugar - Thorsmork route "Laugavegurinn", The Hot Spring Route, which is very appropriate. The trail "Laugavegurinn" is one of the most popular and most travelled hiking trails in Icelandic wilderness. We have read that the trail offers a great variety of landscape. Mountains in almost every color of the rainbow, great glaciers, roaring hot springs, big rivers and lakes. Typically people overnight in huts but we brought our own sleeping bag and tent.

We arrived at the airport last night at around midnight and have been here since due to our early morning flight. Yup, 7 hours in the airport. We were alone however. The airport could have easily passed as a shelter last night. Floors and benches littered with backpackers.

We are heading straight to the Blue Lagoon to kick off our trip and will report more soon.

Downsized!

I downsized my bag to get ready for 9 days of backpacking in Iceland with my older brother. Praying that I can keep up!

Mom & Chuck are Heading home

From Mom: "Chuck and I are awaiting our 13 hour flight - hoping to catch the Northern Lights (NOT the volcano in Iceland). Clarke and Lauren are off to hike in together and separately in Iceland/Norway/Denmark and Sweden, Lisa to start her residency in Finland.
"Moi. Moi!" is "Goodbye" in Finnish. So we are now "finished" with ALL language puns, ridiculous accents and the urge to break into the complete soundtrack and lyrics from "Frozen."

Sunday, August 31, 2014

Practical Finnish details

TRIPLE pane windows seem to be everywhere (oh, so cold those winters). However, in order to find laundry, we had to take a ferry to a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
Go figure.
We were told "the Fins are a peculiar people." They certainly do not air their laundry in public.

Moi...moi

Moi is hello-moi, moi is goodbye in Finnish. We've just said farewell to Helsinki and wished everyone grand adventures until we meet back in the States. The Instagram photos are astonishing, but this sketch captures our travelin' quintet (plus our new favorite Moomin) pretty well.

Saturday, August 30, 2014

Hey (or maybe Hai) Helsinki!!!

Hello Helsinki! ("Hai" or "Moi" is Hello in Finnish)

After an all night journey across the Baltic Sea, we were greeted in the morning by our charming hostess Jazmin. She showed us her delightful apartment and escorted us to the most delicious breakfast at Cafe Tin Tin Tango.

Afterwards we shopped the market for seasonal berries and mushrooms, wandered the design district, found earrings and flip books at Napa (means "belly button" in Finnish), checked out a typical hardware store, explored the Design Museum, made a pilgrimage to marimekko, and FINALLY saw some laundry (spotting it is challenging in Scandinavia). Finished up the evening at the Helsinki Festival with an extraordinary performance of punk-intersects-ballet-and-high-fash (fash is a word) "Animal Vegetable Mineral" choreography by the Michael Clark Company. Clarke has navigated the streets, Lauren the logistics and Lisa our attitudes. We couldn't ask for three more perfect Muskateers!

-Tina



Legs of Leningrad

Where do they get those legs???
The Americans cover them with boots and leggings - Russian ladies stop traffic.

Unexpected colors

St.Petersburg is a glorious string of canals, candy cane churches and pastel colored buildings held together by souvenir shops and intermittent technology. If we could have one ruble for every nesting doll, we'd have as many paintings as there are in The Hermitage (they say if you spend one minute looking at each painting, it would take you 8 years to see them all).
Do the math.



Monday, August 25, 2014

Norway, the Quiet Room

} When I arrived in Norway, it was peaceful and serene, yet something was off. I couldn't put my finger on it. Was it that nearly everyone I saw was blonde? No, I was expecting that. Was is that a majority of people wear brightly colored jackets and black spandex? No, it's morning and they are all out for their morning exercises.

As we sat in a cafe in Bergen, drinking a "sot chili" espresso drink made up of vanilla, espresso and chocolate, it dawns on us. Where is the background music? Where is the sound of traffic? Where is the cafe chatter?

While browsing a bookshelf, I noticed a book called, "The Quiet Room," and a title couldn't be more appropriate. From the moment, we boarded the train from the airport to Oslo, it was quiet. The hum of the train and the breath of passengers reading, checking emails and sleeping, were the only noise we heard along the tracks.

After we explored the sculpture gardens of Oslo, we began our journey through to the Fjords that was wrapped up in what the tourist industry calls, "Norway in a Nutshell." We took a 5 hour train ride north from Oslo and boarded a "mail boat" and headed down the coast. It was less of a mailboat and more like a cruise boat with a couple stacks of mail. While I'd like to say it was a wonderful boat, it all honesty, it was...well....slow and a real opportunity to experience the silence. I think we may have been the only people talking on the boat. We finally arrived in Bergen, where we explored the Viking Village. It was also the start of a game of planes, trains and ferries. We boarded a train east to Voss and then into Gudvagen Fjord.

The fog nestled between the crevasses of the mountain as we sailed into the blue waters. The quiet room was no longer quiet as it filled with a cacophony of lanuages and clicking cameras. Tourists crowded the walls, eager to capture the "best shot" on their 3 inch screens. Meanwhile others, leaned dangerous off the edge of the rail, determined to get the perfect selfie. Has anyone ever researched the psychological process behind a selfie? We witnessed one woman take nearly 50 selfies of herself as she perfected her pucker mouth.

Frustrated by selfie mania, I stood up on my chair and peered over to see the astonishing Yosemite like cliffs which loomed over us as we widened around the bends of the Fjord. The fog finally lifted and the sun came out and welcomed us to the quaint town of Flam where we were to board a train back to Oslo.

The train was delayed for almost 2 hours which gave us enough time to reflect on the beautiful scenery we had just witnessed and time to do handstands! Yes, handstands! It is a tradition that my aunt started and so I thought, why not? I skipped over to the red wall, put my hands on the floor and kicked up. Fellow foreigners watched my attempted to stand upside down and in just a couple moments, I had a man from China and a 60 year old man from Chicago successfully doing handstands against the wall. We all laughed and chatted together until the train arrived and we were on our way back to Oslo, in the silent car.

Sunday, August 24, 2014

Proof of evolution

We found the missing link.
Long ago, someone's ancestors climbed up onto land to get things started.

Friday, August 22, 2014

Norge National Sports

Passing through Lillehammer - the site of the Winter Olympics just outside of Oslo - we were reminded how athletic everyone is here at any age - actively walking, hiking, biking, climbing all over the city. In the winter everyone must cross country ski since it is a "national right."
> And there is this wonderful attitude toward public art and performance. Here's a staircase built out of 2x4s by students. And while his electric car is charging, this fellow practices, ties his "slack rope" up to the railing and teaches Lauren a step or two. Meanwhile, Chuck works on perfecting his "under bridge trolling" and daily tripping exercises. They have these 2" curbs EVERYWHERE and in the most unexpected places...
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Sykkeling

Easy to learn this language. Just sound it out and look for visual clues.
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ME to WE

From my mom:
Lauren realizes the power of WE as she also discovers that Scandinavia is filled with "my peeps" - healthy, backpacking, legging-wearing, blond, blue-eyed beautiful people.

Chuck and I discover apartment buildings lined up like barcodes, helpful translations and that ABBA has her own museum.
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